In the previous post on Bhutan we talked of how the country is not for the casual backpacker, that is unless you can snag an invitation from a Bhutanese citizen. We spoke about how special permits are required for entering areas outside of the Thimpu region and how your travel agent will arrange these for you. In this post, we move away from sights huddled in and around Thimpu. From exquisite weaves to breathtaking scenery to an unexpected Swiss microbrewery, here are some of the country’s other highlights-
Trongsa– Hurtling past verdant Himalayan slopes, as you near the very heart of Bhutan, you can see the striking Trongsa Dzong from miles away. The main town itself is tiny, straddling the rather narrow highway. The Dzong ( fortress like structure) dominates the skyline from miles away in irreproachable red and white. It is little wonder that it is frequently referred to as ‘the dragon flying over the mountain peaks’. At one time it was the ruling seat of the country from where the first and second kings of the Wangchuk dynasty reigned. Even today kings are conferred with the title of Governor of Trongsa. The Dzong shuts by early evening. Not privy to the knowledge that it would be closed, we were rather downcast at being locked out from the stunning and extensive monastery. Just as we were about to turn away dismay writ large over our faces, an elderly Buddhist monk in classic flowing maroon and yellow robes jangled a large set of keys offering to take us on a personal tour of the massive Dzong. We spent two hours with different monks who seemed happy to show us around all the while giving us a fascinating insight into Trongsa’s history.
The next day we decided to drop by the close by Kuenga Rabetan, once the winter abode of the second king. The 23 km journey towards this royal residence takes you past vast paddy terraces, women hauling home firewood on their backs and numerous tinkling waterfalls.
For the outdoorsy there are several hiking opportunities. Seven kilometers from Trongsa is Semji village. The trail takes one through thick forests. Take a pair of strong binoculars if you have an inclination towards bird watching. From the village walk back down towards the highway where you can get your driver to pick you up instead of repeating the hike backwards.
Bhumtang is the home of Bhutan’s very own weiss, Red Panda beer. Stop at the bar for draughts of the local brew that is supposedly unfiltered and preservative free. While opinion is much divided on the quality of the beer, personally it was the best beer we had tasted in all of Asia. The brewery was started by Fritz Maurer, originally a Swiss man and his Bhutanese wife. The story goes that his wife died of cancer from excessive and constant chewing on betel nuts and leaves.Their son now oversees operations of production of the 3000 bottles of beer or so a month. Hops and other ingredients for the beer are said to be imported from Germany. Maurer a trained cheese maker moved to Bhutan on the behest of the previous king to start a cheese factory. You can also sample the delectable soft cheese Maurer’s family makes at the Yoser Lhamo shop. Visits can also be arranged to the Swiss farm.
Bhumtang is the hub of Bhutanese culture. It has the largest concentration of beautiful monasteries and palaces like Ugyen Choeling, Jakar Dzong, Jambay Lhakhang, Lamay Goemba amongst many more. Also, make a trip to Mebartsho or the flaming lake which is in fact a river running through a gorge. It is said that Bhutan’s most famous Guru, Guru Rinpoche buried treasures later found by Bhutan’s just as well know saint, Pema Lingpa. Now a pilgrimage site, visitors light lamps and set it afloat on the water.
We experienced monastic life first hand at a monastery run by nuns. We were invited as special guests to dine with these incredible women who had pledged to lead austere lives. We sat on the ground and partook of a delicious but sparse Bhutanese repast in complete silence. The nuns however after the meal beamed at us and enquired of our lives. We exchanged notes.
On an aside, apart from getting our fill of culture, through our driver, a man of substantial enterprise we were eagerly introduced to an up and coming ( in the nascent Bhutanese film industry) actor’s parents at their ancestral home. Not only were we treated as revered guests by the end of it we were also begun to be looked on as potential brides for their two strapping sons including the one with the flair for histrionics.
Lhuntse– The Dzong at Lhuntse is impressive but if you are over-saturated with gawking at monasteries you would do well to visit the well-known weaving village of Khoma It is a two hour trek from the suspension bridge on the way to the monastery. It is a gentle and even walk passing the picturesque Kuri Chhu River. Women and girls are preferred to work the loom as their fingers are considered more delicate and capable of creating exquisite weaves. Many sell their craft in their houses at prices much lower than they would at city markets.
Another thing to try on the streets outside the Lhuntse monastery is Ara. While public production and distribution is prohibited, you can try this potent local alcoholic drink at any of the numerous shack like houses that line the main street. It is made from wheat, maize or rice and is usually served warm with a poached egg.
Feature image- Trongsa Dzong, Image courtesy- Hung Chung Chih / Shutterstock.com.
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