Japan is not only one of the few developed nations in this corner of the world, but also one where modernity and tradition meld together in rather curious ways. Bullet trains are just as much an integral part of Japan as are the preserved quarters of geishas in Kyoto. The Japanese have a pronounced penchant for order and structure. Everything works like clockwork. They are, moreover, polite to a fault. While social hierarchy prevents them from being overtly flamboyant or boisterous, they are indulgent towards foreigners who more often than not unknowingly commit serious social gaffes. Most Japanese will walk all the way with tourists if you are lost and/or seek help. Exceedingly well-mannered they might be, but if you go too far ( like cutting a line to board a train) they are quite capable of raking one down with a mere disapproving look.
Its younger generation is impeccably fashionable and up to speed with all the latest trends. In general, they may appear extraordinarily uninhibited when it comes to carnal relations (they even have what in any other country would be considered seriously whacko- a reality game show called ‘orgasm wars’). Yet, in the present day the country faces a massive ageing population crisis. Prohibitive cost of living for both sexes and the societal (hugely patriarchal) pressure to abandon independent careers once married for women, is pulling back the younger generation from pledging their troth as also making babies. Almost 50% of the Japanese adult population, according to a recent estimate, practice some form of voluntary abstinence.
With all its pros and cons, the island nation is fascinating- truth be told even its problems are unusual-, like no other place on earth. Here are a few of Japan’s top experiences in no particular order-
1-Kabuki
This colorful dance drama art form makes liberal use of elaborate costumes, painted faces and other sumptuous props. Kabuki performances however are long, running to upwards of three hours and are in Japanese. Most Kabuki theatres will sell you tickets for individual acts. These are very popular with international tourists. The one we watched was light hearted, fun and laugh out loud funny which we followed entirely through dramatic context. You can catch a performance in most large cities.
2-Cherry blossoms
Depending on location, cherry blossoms bloom between January ( in Okinawa) to May (in Sapporo). Tailor your trip to coincide with the blossoms. A handy ( though slightly pricey) Japan rail pass will allow you to travel at high speeds across the country. We caught these lovely blossoms of a special kind of cherry blossom in full bloom on the 8km hike between Magome to Tsumago. The beautiful hike in itself is easy and traverses between the two villages maintained in traditional style. Carry a tiny bell to ward off any stray bears on the way.
3-Onsen
The Japanese have figured out the perfect way to unwind. Onsens are communal spring baths usually with separate facilities for women and men. They even have onsen towns. Serious bathers can follow interesting onsen trails. Some are found out in the wild, in the open, by rivers or in mountains. Some of the more luxurious ones have baths/Jacuzzis at different temperatures for a velvety soak. Only small towels are allowed in to the bath and people with tattoos are usually denied entry.
4-Sumo
Sumo is a national sport followed by the Japanese with fervor. Watching prosperous looking wrestlers execute fighting technique to perfection during much advertised matches that does the rounds across the country during season is a highlight on any Nipponphille’s itinerary. The ceremonies that accompany the matches such as the salt throwing ritual are just as exciting. If a match is not in town, try scheduling a visit at Tokyo’s numerous sumo stables. You can watch wrestlers practice from the sidelines in silence and if fortunate may even be invited partake of a special meal (chanko) with them.
5-Geisha dances – Miyako Odori- (literally Capital city or Kyoto dances)
Geishas train as apprentices from a young age in the art of entertaining. Catch a riveting four hour long geisha dance performance in Kyotos geisha district Gion. Flawlessly painted petite geishas also perform at private parties but unless your pockets run extra deep, theatres in Gion would be your best bet to catch these world famous artists.
6-Capsule hotel
Two level capsules (miniaturized hotel rooms) stacked one upon the other are meant to provide short-term sleeping space. These fiberglass compartments are usually equipped with a TV, headphones. electronic consoles and wifi. The first one came up in Osaka in 1979 and since have cropped up all over the country to cater mostly to inebriated businessmen or professionals. These days there are however capsule hotels catering solely to women. There are also some hotels that have whole sections reserved for just women. Our verdict; they are surprisingly commodious and comfortable at the right establishments. They are not at all claustrophobic as we initially thought it would be. Bathing is communal and lockers are provided to store luggage.
( To be continued in part 2)
Feature image- Sumo wrestlers preparing for a fight (Image courtesy- Shutterstock).
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