We trudged in the dark with but a tiny flashlight to guide us through the overgrown mud and marsh path that lead to the lodge nestled in the jungle. Hindered by mild night blindness and also the swampy ground we soon lagged behind the Shaman who was clearly unused to our tortoise like pace. Our Shaman, however, soon understanding our predicament indulged us by walking slower, cheerfully taking on the additional role of guide.
In less than an hour we reached the modest lodge facing the mighty river Napo. Thickset jungle surrounded us in all other directions. Right beside the lodge was the ceremonial area, a gondola like structure, in the middle of which the Shaman started a roaring fire in order to place over it a cauldron to make the ayahuasca.
An unassuming man, he smiled a lot as he got down to preparing the ayahuasca, making an occasional stab at conversation in broken English but reverting very soon to Spanish, “ I have had disciples from all over the world. Some stay for years to learn how to become a Shaman. Some come from as far as Japan and Europe on a spiritual transformation quest.”
Eduardo who soon joined us and acted as translator, however, cautioned “ The shaman can only help one with spiritual matters, if you are physically unwell you must go to a properly qualified medical doctor. This distinction is very important”
He very clearly explained to us what Ayahuasca was and its uses by the indigenous people in the Amazon. Ayahuasca is known for its psychedelic properties and is made out of Banisteriopsis caapi vine in combination with other DMT (N-Dimethyltryptamine) containing leaves. DMT is illegal in most countries but in many parts of the Amazon its consumption is allowed for spiritual purposes. Many indigenous people have been using the drug for generations. The churches of União do Vegetal and the church of Santa Daime both originating from Brazil use it as sacrament.
Listening intently, we sat around the fire in anticipation for six long hours as the vines cooked and simmered eventually turning into a thin brown concoction that had the consistency of diluted mud. Finally, it was time for the psychotropic drug to be administered.
The shaman did nothing fancy. We expected to be tapped on the head with feathers and sit in a circle chanting ancient hymns or songs. Nothing of that sort ensued. Instead, the smiling Shaman merely poured out different amounts of liquid for each of us. He is supposed to sense our aura and understand how much each person needs.
We gulped down the vile liquid. Nothing happened. We sat waiting. We were told it would take about half an hour to kick in. Many purportedly experience spiritually transformative ‘trips’. We were told that to fully comprehend the experience it was recommended that we consume the drug at least thrice; not at a stretch but with a gap of two to three days between each ceremony.
That said, the drug should be consumed with caution as there have been reported cases of death on ingestion. It is contraindicated for people with medical conditions especially those with cardiovascular ailments and psychological disorders such as schizophrenia.
After about twenty minutes as we sat staring into the fire, the embers suddenly took the form of a snake and slithered away with a bright orange and black fiery glow. And soon after the nausea hit in erratic spasms. The Shaman surprisingly only spit out globs of saliva never once throwing up.
Every sound became more amplified. The gentle lapping of the river sounded like a drilling machine that buzzed loudly in our ears. The barfing soon intensified, cleansing our systems as we violently threw up. Simultaneously, the hallucinations became stronger. The entire experience lasted almost five hours from the first hallucination. Vomiting is almost constant as are the wave upon wave of hallucinations. While one of us saw shadows of men creepily walking towards her with extended arms, the other had hallucinations that were relatively more tame with shadows of wolves and dogs permeating the air.
Eventually, the visions stopped. By the end of it we were physically exhausted. Eduardo kept an eye on us the whole time, escorting us to our room in the lodge in the wee hours of the morning. A safe environment with people you trust is recommended for anyone wishing to experience its healing and purgative properties.
We woke up late in the afternoon to be greeted by our ever cheerful host, our Shaman who had laid out a sumptuous breakfast for us in the kitchen to fill our now empty rumbling stomachs. Eduardo joined us again ready to take us once again into another adventure, this time to pan for gold by the river!
Eduardo currently runs his own travel agency and offers guided tours in the Amazon. He also acts as freelance guide for services in other parts in and around Ecuador. Apart from white water rafting and ayahuasca ceremonies, other activities at his jungle lodge include making chicha with carrots (not spit!), making chocolate, panning for gold, biking and exploring hidden waterfalls in the jungle that only local Quechua people know of. You can also volunteer to help Eduardo’s family extend the jungle lodge in exchange for food and board.
He can be contacted at- Hakmatecuad Travel Adventures
Phone: 062 886 853 / 09 9874 0170
E-mail: hakmatecuad@gmail.com
Facebook- https://www.facebook.com/pages/Hakmatecuad-Travel-SA/289129177950675
Feature image- Shamanic ritual. Image courtesy- Stefano Ember / Shutterstock.com
Leave a Reply