One of our favorite cities in South America is Bogota, Colombia’s capital. Colombia once known for its drug cartels and extreme violence has cleaned up nice, at least to an outsider. Bogota for all intents and purposes looks and feels like a well-planned modern city replete with tasteful skyscrapers that is also simultaneously eager to preserve and promote its cultural heritage.
In the very heart of Bogota is its historic center La Candelaria. As its evocative name suggests, be prepared to be transported in time to another world but with all the conveniences of modern times. Cobble stone streets and beautiful colonial buildings that stand wall to wall compete for attention with plenty of artful new age graffiti that somehow enhance and add to the beauty of this vibrant area. Don’t forget to take some of the guided graffiti walking tours. They are packed with information on graffiti as art and the artists behind the paintings.
The main square bang in the middle of the historic center is Plaza de Bolivar with beautiful architecturally imposing buildings such as Palacio de Justicia. Many concerts take place here. In the evenings it populated with speakers vocally espousing religious, political or social viewpoints. Passersby and those lounging around usually congregate to listen if their ears perk up. In the middle of the square is an 1845 bronze statue of Simon Bolivar made by an Italian artist. It is touted to be one of the first monuments erected in the city.
While strolling around Plaza de Bolivar, it was hard not to notice the people’s incredible racial diversity and mix. The observation prompted us to comment on it to a fellow Colombian traveler. Laughing he retorted with what he explained was a commonly held Colombian saying, “Every Colombian has one black grandparent, one white grandparent, one indigenous grandparent and one grandparent who was a prostitute.”
Coming back to La Candelaria, it has an unfortunate reputation for being rough, yet there are plenty of boutique hotels and hostels to choose from. Even the cheaper hostels are suffused with character. Brimming with culture, there is always something to do here at any time of the day or night. The government encourages its people to accrue cultural capital. Entry in to many museums is free on special days or they charge a nominal fee. The huge Museo del Oro or the museum of gold is a must see ( though there are many museums of gold in South America, the one in Bogota is definitely one of the largest and the best).
While there is a preponderance of museums in this capital city, the other museum not to miss is the Museo Botero del Banco de la Republica that houses in three massive floors the paintings and sculptures of renowned Colombian artist Botero and his own private collection encompassing works of Chagall, Picasso, Claude Monet and Henri Matisse. And to boot entry to the museum to check out this priceless collection is absolutely free.
If you are looking for an unforgettable night out, take your pick from tiny Colombian bars with live music you can practice your salsa to, to plush red velvet lined jazz clubs. For the bargain hunter, Bogota is full of weekend flea markets and street markets selling anything from junk to antiques. There is even one running all the way from Plaza Bolivar on to a side street. Games, street performances and plenty of street food and drink give weekends a wholly festive feel.
La Candelaria also has an eclectic mix of international restaurants that can revive even the most jaded taste buds. Personally our favorite was eating at Crepes and Waffles. Their Belgian waffles with Arequipa sauce was finger licking good. Wash it all down with an aromatic cuppa of the famous Colombian coffee at nearby Juan Valdez coffee shop. And if you wish to further slake your thirst, beer would be your go to in this city that is fast catching up with the concept of microbreweries. Bogota is home to its very own award winning beer company Bogota Beer Company or BBC. They have their very own pub/bar in La Candelaria selling a variety of craft beers. Their bottled beer is also sold in super markets. Most restaurants also serve different international beers.
To burn off all the calories and round out a satisfying visit, hike up the nearby Mount Monserrate for panoramic views of the city. Alternately you can take the cable car that runs mornings to late evenings.
On a final exciting note, on the very last day we got a taste of Bogota’s socialist leanings in one of La Candelaria’s smaller squares. We got caught in a protest and were lobbed by the police with tear gas shells. While our throats and eyes burned and we blinked furious tears, it was the red-blooded passion of Colombia’s people to stand up for what they thought was right (we were witness to hundreds passionately join in protest against their government) that warmed the cockles of our heart. We were heartened to have experienced Bogota for all she stood.
Coming soon, a post on the Zipaquira salt cathedral near Bogota.
Feature image-Colorful buildings, La Candelaria. Image courtesy – Jess Kraft/ Shutterstock.com
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