In the previous post we explored some of the Ethiopian capital Addis Ababa’s star attractions. In this one, we will continue with a few more of the capital’s main sights We will also list food, drink and ceremonies that drew our rapt attention while on an unforgettable journey through this land of myth and magic also known as Abyssinia.
Abyssinia is famous for the lions named after it. These are not your regular orange maned lions you get in the rest of the world. Abyssinian lions we were told were majestic creatures that had manes more on the lines of Lion King ( yes the Disney animation Lion King!). The King of the jungle in this part of the world has a constantly color changing mane. Young male lions, we were told, start off with brown orange manes. With age and perhaps wisdom, the manes apparently change color to grey and finally to black. Hard pressed for time to go looking for Abyssinian lions in the wild, we decided to check them out at the zoo across the street from the Ethnological Museum. Conditions at the zoo are not ideal. These stately animals are overcrowded in cramped cages with weekend crowds milling around by the hundreds to have their voyeuristic fill. Some lions even looked emaciated. We, however, did get to see lions in different stages of life with different mane shades.
If there is one sight, you shouldn’t miss in Addis Ababa it would be the Mercato or new market. It has the distinction of being the world’s largest open air market. The market is an amalgamation of a variety of sights, smells and sounds. The market area is divided into several smaller markets specializing in one thing or the other. Walking through markets selling agricultural produce, baskets, coffee, traditional clothing, pottery, spices is an aural and visual treat. Beware though of touts. The market supposedly has over 7,000 traders. Wandering through the maze of streets is a fascinating experience.
Also, do not carry large amounts of cash or wear expensive jewelry if you decide to venture out here. It is also not advisable to stay in this area after nightfall. Try and arrange for a trustworthy guide to show you around. The area is notorious for muggings especially of prosperous looking foreign tourists. Also, always compare prices. We in an adventure of sorts got tricked by a conman into paying five times the price of the traditional Ethiopian dress we fell in love with. We didn’t mind so much. The cool white cotton with a light blue border was definitely a worthwhile buy even if we got ripped off. Mention should also be made of Entoto hill that is a short taxi ride away. Go right up to the restaurant on top for a gorgeous sunset and a panoramic view of Addis.
Injera– is staple in Ethiopian cuisine. Injera is also Ethiopia’s national dish. It is a mildly sour spongy pancake served with a variety of meat and vegetable toppings or stews called wats. With so many options, it certainly looks healthy. Large portion sizes make eating a communal process. It is not unusual for many people to share one large meal. If you are a vegetarian Lent is the perfect time to visit this East African nation. Injera is served with a wider variety of vegetarian toppings minus any meat. You can find injera at almost any Ethiopian restaurant whether high end or low end. We were invited several times especially by the guides we had hired to their homes for either Injera or for coffee ceremonies.
Tej– honey or mead wine is Ethiopia’s best known and widely consumed alcoholic drink. It is compared many times more often to craft beer as the fermenting agent is the hoppy pulverized leaves and twigs of gesho or buckthorn. It is served mostly in tej houses and the beautiful golden brew is served in complementing vase shaped beakers called bereje. The highly alcoholic drink is hardly expensive. It also has an added hint of sweetness that makes even non-beer lovers take to it more easily. For an even sweeter version of tej, Berz is a great option. Especially if you have to drive home at night. It is markedly lower in alcohol content.
Azmari music– There are joints, especially those serving alcohol called tejbeit dedicated to Azmari music and this traditional form of entertainment is even today popular with both Ethiopians and tourists alike. The singers can be either male or female, sometimes performing a duet. They are trained in singing improvised verse to the accompaniment of either fiddle or lyre or both. You can find these establishments in almost any Ethiopian town or city.
Coffee ceremonies– are elaborate rituals usually performed by a woman roasting over hot coals the famous Ethiopian qahwa-coffee beans which are then ground with a wooden mortar and pestle. The elaborate process then moves on to boiling and cooling the rich decoction in special elaborate shaped containers including passing it through one containing a filter made of horsehair. In many towns it is not uncommon for random strangers to invite you into their homes for coffee ceremonies. Sugar, salt or butter is often added to the coffee. Incense is also commonly burned during ceremonies. Though not regular we were invited by our hosts to learn to be ‘hosts’ learning the ritual of pouring coffee into tiny cups for serving several times each with its own connation and meaning.
Feature image- Injera, Ethiopia’s national dish with different kinds of wat. Image courtesy – Paul_Brighton/Shutterstock.com.
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